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SARAWAK

The land of the fabled White Rajahs, the hornbill and the orang utan.  Sarawak is the largest state in Malaysia and by far the most exotic.  Often described as Borneo's "Hidden Paradise", its rainforest, the size of Austria, houses the world's richest and most diverse eco-system.  It is also home to the world's largest flower, Rafflesia, the size of a coffee table, squirrels and snakes that fly, deer the size of cats, plants that eat insects (and small mammals), and a myriad of species of flora and insects still waiting to be discovered.

HISTORY

The history of Sarawak could have been lifted straight out of a Hollywood epic box office hit. In the 19th century, a cast of several thousand headhunters and pirates set into action a swirl of events peppered with enough adventure and intrigue to satisfy any action movie enthusiast.

The Brooke era chronicles the time ruled by three generations of an English family whose first foray into Sarawak came with James Brooke, the first White Rajah.  The dynasty of the White Rajah was a classic case of being in the right place at the right time. In 1839, when the English swashbuckling adventurer James Brooke docked in Kuching to deliver a letter to the governor of Sarawak, Rajah Muda Hashim, Sarawak was in the throes of a rebellion against the Brunei sultanate.  As a token of appreciation to James Brooke for quelling the uprising, the grateful Pengian Mahkota of Brunei granted Brooke the territory between Tanjung Datu and Samarahan river in 1841.  James Brooke 'crowned' himself 'Rajah', becoming the first white man to rule such a large territory in the East in his name and not on behalf of a European monarch.  James Brooks' eldest son, Rajah Charles Vyner Brooke acceded in 1917 and ruled Sarawak as absolute potentate though he granted Sarawak a written constitution in 1941.The Japanese arrived the same year, putting events on hold and during the Japanese occupation (1941-1945) Charles and his family fled to Australia.  When the Japanese surrendered in 1945 Charles Brooke returned to Sarawak and resumed his role as the White Rajah.  

British pressure and his belief that the state could not recover and progress on its own, led to Sir Charles' announcement to relinquish Sarawak to Britain.  Sarawak's colonization by the British on 1 July 1946 caused a division amongst the people and hundreds of government officers and teachers resigned from the government service in protest. 

As a British colony, Sarawak's economy expanded and oil and timber production increased, which funded the much-needed expansion of education and health services.  Following Malaysian independence in 1957, Britain was keen to give Sarawak and British North Borneo (Sabah), independence also.  To this end Malaysia's first Prime Minister Abdul Rahman, proposed the formation of a federation to include Singapore, Sarawak, Sabah and Brunei, as well as the peninsula.  In the end, Brunei opted out, Singapore left after two years, but Sarawak and Sabah joined after being offered a degree of autonomy, allowing their local governments control over state finances, agriculture and forestry. 

CULTURAL DIVERSITY AND RELIGION

One of the most attractive features of the State of Sarawak, and one which sets it aside from many of the other Malaysian states is its cultural diversity.  With 27 distinct indigenous ethnic groups that speak 45 different languages and dialects, Sarawak can be proud to boast racial harmony amongst a population of 2.1 million who adhere to a variety of traditions, practices and religions (see section on ethnic groups). With such a melting pot of customs and cultures, Sarawakians enjoy a variety of colourful festivals throughout the calendar year (see section on Festivals).  The cultural diversity also accounts for why Sarawak is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the region.

Arrive in Sarawak and you step into adventure.  How much adventures is up to you.  You can stroll for a morning in a national park, or trek for days through pristine jungle.  If walking is not your style why not try a river safari, or white water rafting on Rejang, the longest river in Malaysia.  Want to get out of the sun?  Spend days exploring the world's most extensive cave system, 310 kilometres of passages with more waiting to be found. If history thrills you, visit caves that were inhabited 40,000 years ago and learn how Indian and Chinese merchants traded for Sarawak's exotic products centuries before the first Europeans came here.  Hear stories of princes and pirates, of head hunters and explorers. But if that is more excitement than you need, relax on one of the beaches by the South China Sea, or scuba dive off reefs, or just enjoy a round of golf at the Damai Golf & Country Club.  Sarawak has something for everyone and a welcome for all.

ETHNIC GROUPS

The Malays

The Malays make up 21% of the population in Sarawak.  Traditionally fishermen, these seafaring people chose to form settlements on the banks of the many rivers of Sarawak. Today, many Malays have migrated to the cities to take up various professions in the public and private sectors.Malay villages (Kampungs) - a cluster of wooden houses on stilts, many of which are still located by rivers on the outskirts of major towns and cities, play home to traditional cottage industries.  The Malays are famed for their wood carvings, silver and brass crafts as well as traditional Malays textile waving. The Malays are Muslim by religion, having brought the faith to Asia some 1000 years ago.  Their religion is reflected in their culture and art and Islamic symbolism is evident in their local architecture.

The Melanaus

The Melanaus have been thought to be amongst the original settlers of Sarawak.  Originally from Mukah, the Melanaus traditionally lived in tall houses.  Nowadays, they have adopted a Malay lifestyle, living in kampong-type settlements. The Melanaus were believed to originally worship spirits in a practice bordering on paganism.  Today, many of them are Christian and Muslim, though they still celebrate traditional animist festivals such as the annual Kaul Festival.

The Chinese

The Chinese first came to Sarawak as traders and explorers in the 6th Century.  Today, they make up 29% of the population of Sarawak and comprise of communities built from the economic migrants of the 19th and 20th centuries. The first Chinese migrants worked as labourers in the gold mines at Bau or on plantations.  Through their clan associations, business acumen and work ethnic, the Chinese organised themselves economically and rapidly dominated commerce.  Today, the Chinese are amongst Sarawak's most prosperous ethnic groups. The Sarawak Chinese maintain their ethnic heritage and culture and celebrate all the major cultural festivals, most notably Chinese New Year and the Hungry Ghost Festival.  The Sarawak Chinese are predominantly Buddhists and Christians.

The Iban

The Iban form the largest percentage of Sarawak's population, making up some 30%.  Reputed to be the most formidable headhunters on the island of Borneo, the Ibans of today are a generous, hospitable and peaceful people.  Because of their history as pirates and fishermen, they were conventionally referred to as the "Sea Dayaks". The early Iban settlers migrated from Kalimantan (the Indonesian part of Borneo south of Sarawak) and set up home in the many river valleys.  The Ibans dwell in longhouses, a stilted structure compromising many rooms housing a whole community of families.








                               

The Ibans are renowned for their Pua Kumbu (traditional Iban weavings), silver craftings, wooden carvings, beadwork, and high-quality rattan baskets and mats.  The Ibans were also famous for their tuak (rice wine) which is served during big celebrations and festive occasions. Today, the majority of Ibans practice Christianity.  However, like most other ethnic groups in Sarawak, they still hold strong to their many traditional rituals and beliefs.  Sarawak is unique to colourful festivals such as the Gawai Dayak (harvest festival), Gawai Kenyalang (hornbill festival), and Gawai Antu (festival of the dead).
The Bidayuhs

Originally from West Kalimantan, the Bidayuhs are now most numerous in the hill country of Bau and Serian, within an hour's drive from Kuching.  Historically, as other tribes were migrating into Sarawak and forming settlements, the meek-natured Bidayuhs retreated further inland, hence earning them the name of "Land Dayaks".  The traditional Bidayuh abode is the "baruk", a roundhouse that rises about 1.5 metres off the ground. The Bidayuhs speak a number of different but related dialects.  Whilst some of them still practice traditional religions, most modern-day Bidayuhs have adopted the Christian faith.

Orang Ulu

The phrase Orang Ulu means 'up-river people' and is a term used to collectively describe the numerous tribes that live upriver in Sarawak's vast interior.  Such groups include the Kenyah tribes, and the smaller neighbouring tribes of the Kejang, Kejaman, Punan, Ukit, and Penan.  Nowadays, the definition also includes the down-river tribes of the Lun Bewang, Lun Dayeh, Murut and Berawan as well as the plateau-dwelling Kelabits.  The various Orang Ulu groups together make up roughly 5.5% of Sarawak's population. The Orang Ulu are artistic people with longhouses elaborately decorated with murals and woodcarvings.  They are also well-known for their intricate beadwork and detailed tattoos.  The Orang Ulu tribe can also be identified by their unique music - distinctive sounds from their sape, a stringed instrument not unlike the mandolin. A vast majority of the Orang Ulu tribe are Christians but old traditional religions are still practiced in some areas. Some of the major tribes making up the Orang Ulu group include:

Kayan There are approximately 15,000 Kayans in Sarawak.  The Kayan tribe built their longhouses in the northern interiors of Sarawak midway on the Baram River, the upper Relang River and the lower Tabau River, and were traditionally headhunters.  Although many Kayan have become Christians, some still practice paganistic beliefs.

Kelabit With a population of approximately 3,000, the Kelabit are inhabitants of Bario - a remote plateau in the Sarawak Highlands, slightly over 1,200 meters above sea-level. The Kelabits form a tight-knit community and practice a generations-old form of agriculture.  Famous for their rice-farming, they also cultivate a variety of other crops which are suited to the cooler climate of the Highlands of Bario.


Kenyah There are few findings on the exact origin of the Kenyah tribe.  Their heartland, however, is Long San, along the Baram River.  Their culture is very similar to that of the Kenyan tribe with whom they live in close association. The typical Kenyah village consists of only one longhouse and people are mainly farmers, planting rice in burnt jungle clearings.

Penan The Penan are the only true nomadic people in Sarawak and amongst the last of the world's hunter-gathers.  The Penan make their home under the rainforest canopy, deep within the vast expanse of Sarawak's virgin jungle.  Even today, the Penan continue to roam the rainforest hunting wild boar and deer with blowpipes. The traditional Penan worships a supreme god called Bungan.  However, the increasing number who have abandoned the nomadic lifestyle for settlement in longhouses have converted to Christianity.

FESTIVALS

The timing of Islamic festivals is an art rather than a science and is calculated on the basis of local sightings of various phases of the moon.  Muslim festivals move forward by around nine to ten days each year.  Chinese, Indian (Hindu) and some Christian holidays are also moveable.  To make things more exciting, each state has its own public holidays when shops close and banks pull down their shutters.  This makes calculating public holidays in advance a bit of a quagmire of lunar events, assorted king’s birthdays and tribal festivals. 

Besides those festivals celebrated throughout Malaysia:  Christmas, Chinese New Year, and Hari Raya – Sarawak and Sabah have their own festivals, although exact dates can vary.  For details of what festivals are held and when go to the official Sarawak Tourism website:  www.sarawak.gov.my

(Illustrated: Chinese New Year celebrations at the Holiday Inn, Damai Beach).










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